生物学杂志

生物学杂志 ›› 2024, Vol. 41 ›› Issue (1): 46-.doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2095-1736.2024.01.046

• 研究报告 • 上一篇    下一篇

薰衣草精油对皮肤屏障紫外损伤的保护机制研究

刘　菲1， 王　倩1， 韩婷婷1， 杨素珍1， 王文翠2， 郭凤娇1   

  1. 1. 山东福瑞达生物股份有限公司， 济南 250101； 2. 上海交通大学 设计学院， 上海 200240
  • 出版日期:2024-02-18 发布日期:2024-02-18
  • 通讯作者: 杨素珍，正高级工程师，研究方向为化妆品配方与功效，E-mail:85844202@qq.com
  • 作者简介:刘菲，博士，高级工程师，研究方向为皮肤基础科学与化妆品，E-mail:liufei901@163.com
  • 基金资助:
    第四师可克达拉市科技计划项目（2021GY08）；山东省企业技术创新项目（202250101132）

Study on the protective mechanism of lavender essential oil against ultraviolet damage of skin barrier

LIU Fei1, WANG Qian1, HAN Tingting1, YANG Suzhen1, WANG Wencui2, GUO Fengjiao1   

  1. 1. Shandong Freda Biotech Co., Ltd., Ji’nan 250101, China;
    2. School of Design, Shanghai Jiaotong University, Shanghai 200240, China
  • Online:2024-02-18 Published:2024-02-18

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摘要： 为探究薰衣草精油（Lavender essential oil, LEO）对皮肤屏障紫外损伤的保护作用及相关机制，采用气相色谱-质谱联用（Gas chromatography-mass spectrometry, GC-MS）法对LEO的成分进行鉴定分析，并采用3D表皮皮肤模型，以600 mJ/cm2剂量的中波紫外线（Ultraviolet B, UVB）进行辐照，建立皮肤屏障紫外损伤模型；实验设置未给药+UVB未照射组、未给药+UVB照射组、维生素E/地塞米松+UVB照射组及LEO+UVB照射组，通过苏木精-伊红染色法、酶联免疫吸附测定法、免疫组化法和免疫荧光法等探究不同组别对氧化应激、炎症反应、屏障结构相关蛋白以及CD44受体的影响。结果显示，LEO经GC-MS检测分析后，共鉴定出51种化学成分，主要成分为乙酸芳樟酯、芳樟醇、乙酸薰衣草酯等。UVB会造成皮肤屏障损伤，表现为ROS水平升高，SOD酶活性降低，炎症因子表达增多，屏障相关蛋白及CD44受体表达减少。LEO对UVB诱导的皮肤屏障损伤具有一定的保护效果，主要通过抑制UVB诱导的白介素1α、肿瘤坏死因子α和前列腺素E2表达量增加及ROS水平上升（P<0.05），提升受损皮肤模型中4种屏障相关蛋白和CD44受体蛋白表达量及SOD酶活力来实现（P<0.01）。以上结果表明LEO在减少皮肤屏障紫外损伤方面具有较大的应用前景，为其在护肤品中的应用提供一定的理论基础。

关键词: 薰衣草精油, 3D表皮皮肤模型, 保护机制, 屏障, 紫外损伤

Abstract: This study investigated the protective effects and mechanisms of lavender essential oil (LEO) on ultraviolet light induced damage of skin barrier. The components of LEO were identified and analyzed by gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS). 3D epidermal skin models were used to establish skin barrier damaged model by ultraviolet B (UVB) irritation at a dose of 600 mJ/cm2. The non-medication without UVB exposure group, non-medication with UVB exposure group, vitamin E/ dexamethasone treatment with UVB exposure group and LEO treatment with UVB exposure group were set up parallelly. The effects of different treatment on oxidative stress, inflammation, barrier structure-related proteins and CD44 receptor were investigated by hematoxylin-eosin staining, enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay, immunohistochemistry and immunofluorescence methods, etc. The results showed that a total of 51 chemical components of LEO were identified by GC-MS, and the main components were linalyl acetate, linalool, lavandulyl acetate, etc. UVB could cause damage to skin barrier exhibiting increasing ROS level and expression of inflammatory factors and decreasing SOD enzyme activity and expression of barrier-related proteins and CD44 receptors. LEO had a certain protective effect on UVB-induced skin barrier damage mainly by inhibiting UVB-induced increase in the expressions of IL-1α, TNF-α and PGE2 and ROS production (P<0.05) and by increasing the expression of four barrier-related proteins and CD44 receptor, and SOD enzyme activity (P<0.01) in the skin barrier damaged models. These results indicated that LEO had a great application prospect in reducing UVB damage of skin barrier, which provided basis for its application in skin care products development.

Key words: lavender essential oil, 3D epidermal skin model, protective mechanism, barrier, ultraviolet damage

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